How big is a wave?

It’s a subject of international debate! Just how big is a wave? Some fantastic Newquay surfers give their views in this mini film from Substance! 


The question of how big is a wave arises because as the wave starts to grow, as it nears the shoreline, it grows upwards from the sea level, but there’s also a trough in front of the wave, so the question is whether a wave is measured at the back (flat sea to top of the wave), or at the front face where you actually surf, where a 3′ wave when viewed from the back is a 6′ wave at the front.

** Archived March 2012 **

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